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The ended beach vacation


When we flew back to Bangkok, COVID-19 was already spreading but was not yet a global pandemic. In the previous few days, the Thai Ministry of Health

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In cycling heaven


Thailand has been one of the best countries we have cycled in. Traffic is calm (no horns - our only standard these days), drivers are considerate, and

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Peace at last


While planning our route through Laos, we considered several options through the mountains of northern Laos. However, after much deliberation, we real

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On the road again


After two weeks in Singapore (and almost one month off the bicycles - who knew a bout of sinusitis would take so long?) we flew back to Hanoi, where w

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Vietnam, interrupted


Our trip to Vietnam got off to a good start. We reached the Vietnamese border town of Mong Cai relatively early in the afternoon, despite leaving Fang

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On the tourist trail from Guiyang to Yangshuo


We left Guiyang as we had arrived - again by bus. We calculated that, by skipping a few more days through the mountains, we would then have just enoug

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Intoxicating Guizhou


Luzhou is famous in Sichuan for its liquor, of which we tried a little at our Couchsurfing host's place. Little did we know that, as we made our way i

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The ancient Shu road to Chengdu


The "Roads to Shu" are a system of mountain roads linking the Chinese provinces of Sichuan (Shu) and Shaanxi (Wei), built and maintained since the 4th

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In the middle of Middle Country


In Lanzhou, we had consigned our bicycles to Baoji, where we had a Couchsurfing host waiting for us. However, we ourselves didn't go directly to Baoji

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Along the Hexi Corridor


Jiayuguan is at the end of the Ming dynasty Great Wall, that, in this area, used to protect the western reaches of the Ming empire and the Silk Road.

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Escaping Xinjiang


It's currently not a good time to visit the province of Xinjiang, in the northwest of China. The conflict between Han and Uyghur people in the region

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A korner of Kazakhstan


Kazakhstan is our fifth and final Central Asian country. The ninth largest country in the world (by area), we are ironically spending relatively littl

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All the Kul places


Song-Kul is a high alpine lake in the mountains at about 3000m above sea level. Often said to be one of the most beautiful places in Kyrgyzstan, much

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In Nomads' Land


On our first day in Kyrgyzstan, we encountered by far the most cyclists in a day. We arrived at the Tajik border post together with three cyclists tha

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Marmot Madness


Alichur means Ali's curse, and it's easy to see how the village got its name. After passing by only lone houses in last three days of cycling, the sig

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Altitude Madness


After our long break in Khorog, it was finally time to tackle the high Pamirs. Leaving Khorog up the main M41, also known as the Pamir Highway (which

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Along the Afghan Border


Arriving at the Panj river, we had hoped that the worst of the heat would be over for now, with the valley being cooled by the river and with us slowl

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Into the Pamirs


The rumors are true - immediately after the border from Uzbekistan, there were far fewer car horns. The border crossing was smooth, too. The German Mi

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Travel fatigue?


After leaving our friendly hosts in Kitob, we cycled a long, flat stretch to Guzar, where we couldn't find a guesthouse or hotel, but ended up sleepin

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Along the ancient Silk Road


Somewhere in northern Iran, we had left the main route of the ancient Silk Road to explore the old Persian cities to the south. We then rejoined the S

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