2018-11-04 - 2018-11-24
Total distance: 834 km
Cumulative distance: 2438 km

In Croatia, we cycled from the Slovenian border to the capital Zagreb, and from there via the Plitvice Lakes National Park to Zadar on the coast. Then we followed the coast, partly on the mainland, partly on Korčula island, towards Dubrovnik, at the southern tip of the country.

We discovered that continental Croatia was quite different from the coast, both in terms of climate and in the level of tourism. It was also the most expensive country so far during our trip, partly because it was hard to find hosts on Couchsurfing and Warmshowers on the touristy coast, and partly because the weather changed for the worse on our way down the coast, changing our wild camping plans.


Continental Croatia


Entering from Slovenia, Croatia was the first country on this trip where we had our passports checked. Hannah got an entry stamp, as Croatia is not in

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Down the Dalmatian coast


After crossing the Velebit mountain range, we immediately entered a completely different part of Croatia. For one, the weather changed abruptly, to a

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Best All
King Tomislav Square (market square) and town hall in Varaždin Franciscan Church of St. John the Baptist and statue of medieval bishop Gregory of Nin, who introduced church service in Croatian language Varaždin Castle Prašinski-Sermage Palace in Rococo style On the way to Zagreb Mural of famous Croatian inventors. This one shows David Schwarz, best known for designing the first metal-skinned airship. Although his nationality is disputed, he spent most of his life in Zagreb. Mural of famous Croatian inventors. This one shows Slavoljub Eduard Penkala, a versatile inventor best known for his mechanical pencils and the first fountain pen using solid ink. Originally Hungarian, he later moved to Zagreb, becoming Croatian. Mural of famous Croatian inventors. This one shows Nikola Tesla, most famous for his contributions to the design of the modern AC electricity system. Although of Serbian ethnicity, he was born and grew up in what is now Croatia. View of one of Zagreb's old towns, Kaptol, from the other old town, Gradec. Lotrščak Tower, where a cannon is fired every day exactly at noon to give the sign for the bell-ringers of the city's churches. St. Mark's Church on St. Mark's Square showing the coat of arms of Croatia and Zagreb on its roof. To the left is the seat of the Croatian government, on the right side the building of Croatia's parliament. The Old Town Gate, now a shrine to the virgin Mary. The star on the roof was supposed to catch witches. The shrine inside the Old Town Gate. The portrait of the virgin Mary is said to be sacred, because it was found intact under the ashes of the big town fire. Locals pray here for matters important to them. If their prayers are answered, many people affix a plaque of gratitude to the walls. The biggest market of the city, Dolac. On the square, mostly fruits and vegetables are sold. The square is also the roof of the market hall, which is on the level of the Lower Town and in which meat, fish and milk products are sold. Zagreb Cathedral in Kaptol Limestone was used extensively for the construction of Zagreb Cathedral. It suffers especially under the environmental conditions, so that in 1990, a complex restoration was started that is ongoing till today. The clock on the wall was originally the tower clock, which stopped working at 07:03 on 9 November 1880 when the city was hit by the biggest earthquake in its history. Statue of the Ban Josip Jelačić on the square of the same name. A 'ban' was something similar to a viceroy in Croatia. Josip Jelačić is regarded as a national hero in Croatia. Stairs leading up to the Dolac fruit and vegetables market The Grič Tunnel, which was built during World War II as a bomb shelter and underground promenade, crosses the hill of Grič (another name for Gradec). The bunny that started it all: The first exhibit of the Museum of Broken Relationships

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