Entering Iran from the north, we will be following the Caspian sea for a few days, before crossing the mountains to Tehran. From Tehran, we will head south, passing through the cities of Isfahan and Shiraz, and the ancient city of Persepolis. From there, we will make our way to Yazd, and then across the desert to Mashhad, from where we will head towards Turkmenistan.


Safari Park Iran


Entering any new country, the first thing we always need is the local currency. So far, we have been taking money from ATMs, but in Iran, credit cards

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Sleepless in Iran


To avoid cycling into Tehran's traffic altogether, we decided to take the bus from Karaj to Qom, based on the recommendation of our host in Karaj. Imm

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Among Aryans


While we're still cycling between the big and interesting cities of central Iran (Isfahan, Yazd, Shiraz - more about these in a future blog post), peo

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Culture shock in Iran


Entering Isfahan, the first thing that struck us was the lush greenery everywhere. Blessed with the Zayandeh River that flows through the city, the ci

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Best All
Flooded rice fields and the Alborz mountains between Astara and Talesh Our first full day of riding in Iran happened to be Nature's Day, the last day of Nowruz in Iran, and many families go out for a picnic on this day. Many of the cars on the road had a "sabzeh" (Nowruz sprouts) riding on the front/top/back, and some of them had fallen off to the side of the road. We picked up one of the more intact ones and attached it to our bicycle too :) The view of rice fields and the snow-capped Alborz mountains from near our host's place in Talesh Our host in Anzali, Mostafa, met us on the road about 10km before his house and pretended to be a stranger. It took us way too long (including this selfie) to figure out that he was actually our host... Heiko's birthday lunch with our host Mostafa in Anzali. We had rice with Mirza Ghasemi and Baghli Ghatogh. Anzali harbour Happy Birthday Heiko! Rasht City Hall on the Shahrdari Square While looking for a place to camp, we were invited to sleep in the office at the guardhouse of the Saravan forest park. Since we were in an office, we had to work too... The friendly guys working at the guardhouse of the Saravan forest park, who generously let us sleep in their office View of the Sefidrud River along the road from Rasht to Qazvin. The river was really brown, and we wonder if this is due to recent heavy rains and higher water levels washing more mud into the river. On the left is the Sefidrud Dam. Cycling up the foggy valley on the road from Rasht to Qazvin The valley between Rasht and Qazvin is one of the busiest crossings of the Alborz mountain range, with a freeway, an old road, and a newly built railway running through it Bright green slopes lining the road from Rasht to Qazvin On our way up the valley from Rasht to Qazvin, we decided to camp in this abandoned building as there was heavy rain forecasted that evening and night. The place looked acceptable and we didn't see any better option, but after we had set up our tent and the sun had set, we realised that there was light coming out of a window that we had not noticed before. It turns out that there was a hidden room behind the wall on the left, that was padlocked from the outside. Our reclusive neighbour never came out and we were never discovered, but Heiko was a bit paranoid until we left the next morning. Bright green fields near the highest point of the valley between Rasht and Qazvin. We were surprised how flat it is up here! Fountains leading to the Al-Nabi Mosque in Qazvin The courtyard of the Al-Nabi Mosque in Qazvin The Sa'd-al Saltaneh Caravanserai in Qazvin is a huge and beautifully restored Qajar-era caravanserai, now housing many galleries of independent artists as well as cafes and restaurants. Ali Qapu, or Royal Gate, that used to be the gate to the royal castle in the Safavid era. Qazvin was a medieval capital of the Safavid dynasty for over forty years (1555-1598).

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